This was the perfect weekend break with the Autumn colours were on display. We had a short drive from Milan Malpensa Airport (under an hour) and soon arrived in Como town, where the sun came out, and we had our first glimpse of the lake. Como town is well worth a stop for a wander around the shops and a visit to the cathedral, before driving along the edge of the lake to Tremezzo.

We were greeted by the most welcoming doormen, who whisked away the car to be parked and sent our bags straight to our room. The well-known façade of the hotel was just as impressive as I had imagined. After a swift check-in and brief tour, we were shown to our Junior Suite, one of the newly refurbished rooms overlooking the lake, with a large bathroom, walk-in wardrobe, and two balconies—so no matter where you are in the room, you always have a view of the lake.

I would highly recommend a swim in the floating ‘WOW’ pool (water on water). Although not heated, this was the best way to refresh yourself after an early morning flight! And for the even braver, you can swim in the lake, which I am told is the same temperature as the pool. We quickly warmed up in the spa's infinity pool, where you can admire the lake from inside. There is also a heated pool in the picturesque gardens and a clay tennis court.

The hotel is positioned right next to Villa Carlotta, where you can explore its stunning botanical gardens, and you can hop on the small ferry to Bellagio and other villages on the other side of the lake for a day trip. Or, I would recommend a private boat tour if you want a more exclusive experience on one of the hotel’s speedboats. Otherwise, there’s no need to really leave the property, with five restaurants, including an outdoor pizza bar and beach bar on the lake, and the Michelin-starred restaurant La Terrazza, where you can try their famous gold leaf risotto. But for me, the standout meal was the breakfast, with everything you could ever think of, all displayed in silverware in a grand room—there was even a chocolate fountain. Guests can enjoy breakfast on the terrace overlooking the lake.

The service was outstanding, with very friendly and helpful staff who weren’t over the top in any way. They make you feel part of the Tremezzo family, and you can sense the fact that it is family-owned and run. With the classical and colourful interiors, you can immediately sense the history and glamour of the hotel.

This is also reflected in Passalacqua, their sister property, just a quick drive south from Tremezzo, where I visited for lunch. With similar grandeur to Tremezzo but much more private and secluded with a gated entrance, this is a retreat where guests go to fully relax. With only 24 rooms, you really feel like you are staying at a private home, and the property is only accessible if you are a guest. Each decoration and ornament has been handpicked by the owners, and the main house still has many original features, such as frescos on the ceiling and elaborate Murano glass chandeliers. One fun fact I learnt is that the main building is connected via ancient underground tunnels to the lake, where they have recently opened an underground spa that couldn’t feel more private.

Passalacqua is open all year round and would be the perfect place to celebrate Christmas and New Year, while Grand Hotel Tremezzo is closed for the winter and will re-open in March for spring.